The “Body by Design: Fashionable Silhouettes from the Ideal to the Real” exhibit at Historic Deerfield, running from May 3, 2025, to February 2026, offers a captivating exploration of how fashion has shaped the human body over three centuries. This innovative exhibition delves into the evolution of corsets, stays, crinolines, bustles, and modern shapewear, showcasing their role in creating idealized silhouettes. With 25 carefully curated garments from the 18th to 21st centuries, drawn from Historic Deerfield’s renowned textile collection, the exhibit highlights the cultural, social, and aesthetic significance of body-shaping garments. From the rigid corsets of the Victorian era to the flexible shapewear of today, such as Spanx, this exhibit reveals the enduring human desire to sculpt the body to fit fashionable ideals.

The Historical Significance of Corsets in Fashion

Corsets have been a cornerstone of fashion for centuries, serving as both functional undergarments and symbols of status, beauty, and femininity. Originating in ancient civilizations like Minoan Crete around 1000 BC, early corset-like garments were designed to cinch the waist and accentuate the figure. By the 16th century, corsets—then called stays—became essential in European aristocratic fashion, crafted from rigid materials like whalebone or wood to create a structured, conical silhouette. The “Body by Design” exhibit at Historic Deerfield begins its journey with a 1760s silk formal dress, its wide skirt supported by hooped petticoats, paired with a man’s pink and gold brocaded suit, illustrating the artificial shapes that defined 18th-century fashion.

Stays and Corsets: Shaping the 18th-Century Body

In the 18th century, stays were the precursor to modern corsets, designed to mold the torso into a smooth, upright form. These undergarments, often made of linen or cotton and reinforced with boning, emphasized a narrow waist and elevated bust while promoting rigid posture. The exhibit showcases how stays were not just functional but also decorative, with intricate lacing and embroidery that reflected wealth and status. A notable piece is a pair of stays from the 1760s, demonstrating how they worked in tandem with wide skirts to exaggerate the hips, creating the dramatic silhouettes of the era.

The Victorian Corset: Beauty and Controversy

By the 19th century, corsets had evolved into the iconic Victorian hourglass shape, characterized by a tightly cinched waist, full bust, and rounded hips. The “Body by Design” exhibit features several 19th-century corsets, including one from Belgium’s mysterious “P.D.” manufactory, imported by New York’s James McCreery & Co. These corsets, often made of silk, satin, or velvet, were both a fashion staple and a source of controversy. Critics argued that tight-lacing caused health issues like fainting, organ compression, and respiratory problems, yet corsets remained a symbol of respectability and feminine beauty. The exhibit challenges myths about corsets, noting that most Victorian women laced them to a comfortable 18 to 32 inches, not the exaggerated 16-inch waists of popular lore.

Crinolines, Bustles, and Beyond: Expanding the Silhouette

While corsets focused on shaping the torso, other understructures like crinolines and bustles transformed the lower body to align with changing fashion ideals. The “Body by Design” exhibit showcases how these garments worked in harmony with corsets to create the voluminous skirts and exaggerated hips of the 19th century.

Crinolines: The Cage of Fashion

Introduced in the 1850s, crinolines were lightweight cage-like structures made of steel hoops that replaced heavy layers of petticoats. They allowed women to achieve the wide, bell-shaped skirts that defined mid-19th-century fashion. A highlight of the exhibit is a New England dress from the 1850s, made of silk taffeta, displayed alongside its crinoline understructure. This ensemble illustrates how crinolines enabled dramatic silhouettes while offering greater mobility than their petticoat predecessors.

Bustles: The Backside Revolution

By the 1870s, fashion shifted to emphasize the posterior, and bustles became the must-have accessory. These padded or wired structures, worn under the skirt, created a pronounced rear silhouette. The exhibit includes a bustle-supported dress from the late 19th century, paired with fashion plates from Historic Deerfield’s collection that provide visual context for these evolving styles. Bustles, like corsets, were both practical and symbolic, reflecting societal fascination with exaggerated curves and the female form.

From Corsets to Shapewear: The Modern Era

The 20th century marked a turning point for body-shaping garments. As women’s liberation movements and changing social norms prioritized comfort and practicality, corsets began to fade from everyday fashion. The invention of the brassiere and the rise of looser, more natural silhouettes, championed by designers like Coco Chanel, signaled the decline of rigid undergarments. However, the desire to shape the body persisted, giving rise to modern shapewear like Spanx, which the “Body by Design” exhibit juxtaposes with historical garments to highlight continuities in fashion’s quest for the ideal silhouette.

Spanx and the Shapewear Revolution

Introduced in 2000 by Sara Blakely, Spanx redefined shapewear for the 21st century. Unlike the boned corsets of the past, Spanx uses elastic fabrics like Lycra to smooth and sculpt the body without the discomfort of tight-lacing. The exhibit features contemporary shapewear, including Spanx, to draw parallels between historical corsets and modern solutions. As curator Lauren Whitley notes, “The inclusion of modern garments, such as Spanx, allows us to draw strong parallels between the past and the present—reflecting the ongoing human desire to shape and present our bodies.” This comparison underscores how shapewear continues to address cultural ideals of beauty, albeit with greater emphasis on comfort and versatility.

Corsets as Outerwear: A Fashion Renaissance

While corsets largely disappeared as undergarments, they experienced a resurgence as outerwear in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Designers like Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen reimagined corsets as bold fashion statements, blending historical influences with modern aesthetics. The “Body by Design” exhibit includes examples of corset-inspired contemporary garments, showcasing how designers have transformed this once-oppressive garment into a symbol of empowerment and self-expression.

The Cultural and Social Impact of Body-Shaping Garments

The “Body by Design” exhibit goes beyond aesthetics to explore the cultural and social implications of corsets and shapewear. Clothing, as curator Lauren Whitley emphasizes, is a “cultural touchstone” that reflects personal identity and societal values. Corsets, in particular, have been both celebrated and criticized for their role in shaping not just bodies but also perceptions of femininity.

Corsets and Female Agency

Historically, corsets were seen as tools of oppression, constraining women’s mobility and enforcing rigid beauty standards. However, the exhibit highlights how women also used corsets to exercise agency, shaping their bodies to align with personal or societal ideals. In the 19th century, corsets were a status symbol, signaling wealth and respectability, as they implied the wearer could afford servants and did not need to perform manual labor. The exhibit’s inclusion of a man’s corset from the 19th century further complicates this narrative, showing that body-shaping was not exclusive to women.

Shapewear and Modern Feminism

Modern shapewear, like Spanx, navigates a complex relationship with feminism. While some critics argue that shapewear perpetuates unattainable beauty standards, others see it as a tool for empowerment, allowing women to feel confident in their appearance. The exhibit encourages visitors to reflect on these contradictions, asking whether shapewear represents liberation or conformity. By juxtaposing corsets with contemporary garments, “Body by Design” sparks conversations about how fashion continues to shape our perceptions of the body.

Why Visit the ‘Body by Design’ Exhibit?

Located at the Flynt Center of Early New England Life, the “Body by Design” exhibit is a must-visit for anyone interested in fashion history, cultural studies, or the evolution of beauty standards. Open Wednesday through Sunday (plus Monday holidays) from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., May 3 to November 30, the exhibit is included with Historic Deerfield admission ($20 for adults, $5 for youth 13-17, free for members and children 12 and under). The museum’s commitment to dynamic storytelling, combined with curator Lauren Whitley’s expertise—honed through 14 exhibitions at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston—ensures a thought-provoking experience.

What to Expect

Visitors can expect a visually stunning display of 25 garments, from 18th-century stays to modern shapewear, accompanied by their understructures and contextual fashion plates. The exhibit’s loose chronological organization makes it easy to follow the evolution of body-shaping garments, while interactive elements, such as fashion plates and curator insights, provide deeper context. Highlights include a 1760s silk dress, a 19th-century Belgian corset, and contemporary pieces like Spanx, each telling a story of craftsmanship, innovation, and cultural significance.

Planning Your Visit

Historic Deerfield, situated in the Connecticut River Valley of Massachusetts, offers a full day of exploration. In addition to “Body by Design,” visitors can explore the museum’s historic houses, dine at its restaurant, and shop at the museum store. The opening weekend, May 3-4, 2025, also features “Envisioning America: Deerfield Academy’s Collection of Paintings and Drawings” and the “Wooly Wonders” event, showcasing rare heritage breed sheep. For more information, visit historic-deerfield.org.

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Conclusion

The “Body by Design: Fashionable waspie corset like  Silhouettes from the Ideal to the Real” exhibit at Historic Deerfield is a fascinating journey through the history of corsets top, stays, crinolines, bustles, and shapewear. By showcasing 25 garments from the 18th to 21st centuries, the exhibit reveals how fashion has shaped the human body while reflecting cultural and social values. From the rigid stays of the 1760s to the elastic Spanx of today, these garments tell a story of innovation, beauty, and the enduring quest for the ideal silhouette. Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast, history buff, or curious visitor, this exhibit offers a unique opportunity to explore the art and impact of body-shaping garments. Plan your visit to Historic Deerfield and discover & discover the timeless allure of corsets and shapewear.